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Leica announces APO-Summicron-M 50mm f/2 ASPH normal prime

Leica has announced the APO-Summicron-M 50mm f/2 ASPH. The company is making grand claims for its latest standard-focal-length prime, which uses specially developed glass to create an apochromatic design to minimize chromatic aberrations. The lens was designed to match the specifications of the existing 50mm f/2 lens – a 1979 design that is the oldest in the company’s current lineup. The APO version of the lens will be available from late July 2012 at a cost of around $7,195. . . . → Read More: Leica announces APO-Summicron-M 50mm f/2 ASPH normal prime

EOS 7D Black SLR Digital Camera Kit w/ 28-135mm Lens – Lowest Price: $1499.00

With a host of features designed to enhance every facet of the photographic process, from still images to video. Made to be the tool of choice for serious photographers and semi-professionals, the EOS 7D features an 18.0 Megapixel APS-C size CMOS sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors, capturing tremendous images at up to ISO 12800 and speeds of up to 8 fps. The EOS 7D has an all cross-type 19-point AF system with improved AI Servo AF subject tracking and user-selectable AF area selection modes for sharp focus no matter the situation. . . . → Read More: EOS 7D Black SLR Digital Camera Kit w/ 28-135mm Lens – Lowest Price: $1499.00

Win a Fantastic Manfrotto Photo Travel Kit!

Manfrotto UK is giving away THREE Fantastic Photo Kits which include the new Manfrotto Stile Unica Messenger Photo Bag and new Manfrotto Compact Tripod! Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Win a Fantastic Manfrotto Photo Travel Kit!

Color Efex Pro 4 Now Shipping

Nik Software has released version 4 of its Color Efex Pro filter suite. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Color Efex Pro 4 Now Shipping

Nikon V1 and J1 – hands-on first impressions

We’ve had a little more time with the Nikon J1 and V1, and have prepared a first impressions article about the Nikon 1 system. We also spoke to Masahiro Suzuki, General Manager, R&D Department at Nikon’s development HQ, to better understand the company’s reasoning. The article includes an explanation of their high-speed shooting modes and addresses why the mode dial doesn’t say P,A,S or M. . . . → Read More: Nikon V1 and J1 – hands-on first impressions

Panasonic DMC-LX5 firmware 2.0 brings image and handling improvements

Panasonic has updated the firmware for its LX5 high-end enthusiast compact. The update promises faster AF times and improved noise reduction for images shot at ISO 1600 or 3200. White balance under artificial light has also been tweaked, as well as a series of operational and handling improvements being made. There are revisions too for image stabilization in movie mode, the addition of a ‘Miniature mode’ processing mode. Coming 13 months after the camera’s launch, the move continues Panasonic’s habit of continuing to invest in its enthusiast models well into their lifecycle. The firmware will be available from September 13th. . . . → Read More: Panasonic DMC-LX5 firmware 2.0 brings image and handling improvements

Tenba Expands Discovery and Vector Collections

Responding to popular demand, Tenba has added a Photo/Laptop Daypack and Photo/Tablet Daypack to their Discovery collection, and a Photo/Laptop Daypack and Photo Sling Bag to their Vector collection. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Tenba Expands Discovery and Vector Collections

Canon 5D Mark II Used to Capture Action Sequences in New Feature Film

Canon has announced that a number of action sequences in the highly anticipated feature film, Captain America: The First Avenger were captured with its EOS 5D Mark II digital SLR camera. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Canon 5D Mark II Used to Capture Action Sequences in New Feature Film

Fujifilm Unveils Student Awards 2011 Winner

Fujifilm Professional has announced the winner of its 2011 Student Awards. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Fujifilm Unveils Student Awards 2011 Winner

Apple releases Final Cut Pro X video editing software

Apple has announced Final Cut Pro X, the latest version of its popular high-end video editing software. Final Cut Pro X features a trackless canvas, that Apple is calling a ‘Magnetic Timeline’ for flexible arranging and editing of clips. It’s also possible to ‘audition’ different combinations of clips to make it easier to choose between multiple takes. The software also features improved tagging (including auto-analysis of clips) to make it easier to manage and locate the clips you want to use. Final Cut Pro X is available from the Mac App Store for $299/ . . . → Read More: Apple releases Final Cut Pro X video editing software

Ricoh PX rugged compact announced and previewed

Ricoh has announced the PX rugged, waterproof compact. It combines a 16MP stabilized CCD sensor and 2.7″ LCD with conventional camera styling. Despite its appearance, it can withstand a drop from up to 1.5m and being submerged to a depth of 3m for 60 minutes. Along with the camera, Ricoh has launched a range of silicone covers that help make the camera still-more durable. We’ve had access to a pre-production PX and have prepared a brief preview and 20-image samples gallery. . . . → Read More: Ricoh PX rugged compact announced and previewed

Just posted! Our Sigma SD1 hands-on preview

Just posted! Our hands-on preview of Sigma’s flagship SD1 DSLR. With its unique 15MPx3 Foveon X3 sensor that captures full color detail at each pixel location, the SD1 caused a something of a stir when it was first announced at Photokina 2010, and possibly an even bigger one when its eye-watering price was revealed recently. We’ve been lucky enough to get hold of a rare pre-production camera, and have prepared a hands-on preview detailing its design and operation. . . . → Read More: Just posted! Our Sigma SD1 hands-on preview

Two Tamron Lenses Awarded Honors

Companies love to send out press releases to let people know that they’ve won an award and the folks at Tamron are doubly happy – they’ve won a pair of honors from two different organizations. The first comes from the Technical Image Press Association (TIPA), who named the SP 70-300mm as the best entry level lens of 2011. Tamron says that the biggest reasons behind the choice is speed and responsiveness of the lens, combined with its Ultrasonic Silent Drive. This same lens also won the award for Best European Zoom Lens from the EISA. Tamron’s 18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD all-in-one zoom lens meanwhile has picked up an award from The Camera GP naming it the best lens of the year. Quick focusing, sharp pictures and Tamron’s first Piezo Drive were held up as the prime considerations for the all-in-one zoom lens. . . . → Read More: Two Tamron Lenses Awarded Honors

Jason Larkin Wins 2011 Arnold Newman Award

PDN PhotoPlus International Conference + Expo has announced that British documentary photographer, Jason Larkin, is the winner of the 2011 Arnold Newman Award for New Directions in Photographic Portraiture. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Jason Larkin Wins 2011 Arnold Newman Award

Cinevate Atlas FLT

The new Cinevate Atlas FLT is a lightweight camera slider for video-enabled digital SLR cameras. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Cinevate Atlas FLT

Big size samples of the new SLRmagic 11mm f/1.4 lens

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Last week SLRmagic announced the new 11mm f/1.4 manual lens for Micro Four Thirds . The images you see on top are the very first full size samples posted by the company. CLick on the thumbnails to enlarge the image. The focal length and aperture are very appealing but the image quality is less impressive. You can get the lens on eBay (Click here) . . . . → Read More: Big size samples of the new SLRmagic 11mm f/1.4 lens

A Noktor 50mm f/0.95 o eBay

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UPDATE : Sorry I had the wrong link. I corrected it. Last week where questioning what happened with the Noktor lens. You can’t get it on their website nor on any other store I know. And now I found one on eBay (Click here) . It’s the first Noktor auction since November! A wonder what the final winning bid will be… P.S.: I am a happy owner of the Noktor. Where I do use it most is for video productions. For stills the image quality at f/0.95 is insufficient but at least I can take pictures in very dark situations. . . . → Read More: A Noktor 50mm f/0.95 o eBay

Rock Concert Photography – 9 Tips on How to Get The Shot

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In this post Nyani Quarmyne talks about getting the shot – catching that moment in a show that captures the essence of a performer and the emotion they’re expressing. Much of what I’ve seen written on concert photography centers on gear and the technical aspects of shooting (there are a number of good tips on this site). Of course, gear and technical know-how are important, and I’ll touch on a couple of salient points. But there are other equally important, more esoteric concepts at the heart of stage photography. 1. Get the Exposure Right Stage lighting can be tricky, so you have to get your exposure right or you’ll wind up with beautifully composed, crap shots. Evaluative metering can’t be relied on in the high-contrast and variable lighting conditions that are typically found on a concert stage. Spot metering off your subject or a mid-tone can be useful, but when you have bright lights in the background it can result in a correctly exposed subject and ugly blown highlights in the background. The optimal exposure is often something of a compromise, so I personally prefer to leave the camera set to evaluative/ matrix metering and then get a feel for how much over- or under-exposure is needed for different parts of the stage through estimation and some trial and error. With practice you’ll begin to guesstimate the right settings. You’ll generally be shooting wide open, except when you may need to stop down to get multiple subjects at different distances from the camera in focus, so often it’s your shutter speed and ISO that you’ll be playing with. Once you have a sense of how much over- or under-exposure is needed, you can vary your aperture/ ISO/ shutter speed relationship while keeping the optimal exposure in mind. For example, say you’re getting sharp, correctly exposed images of a guitarist at 125th/s, f/2.8 @ ISO200. Then a singer joins him in the frame. You need a little more depth of field to keep them both in focus, so you leave the shutter speed as it is to keep your shots sharp, stop down two stops to f/5.6 to increase the depth of field, and raise the ISO two stops from ISO200 to ISO800. Your exposure is identical, but now you have the depth of field you need. Just remember to revaluate your exposure when shooting a different area of the stage, or when the lighting conditions change. A camera that allows for clean high-ISO images is a huge advantage as higher ISO settings allow you to keep your shutter speed relatively high, reducing camera shake and better allowing you to freeze action. 2. Use your Histogram! The viewfinder preview is too small to give you a sufficiently detailed view of over- and under-exposed areas of your image. The highlights view will show you where you’ve lost highlight detail, but it doesn’t show you what you may have inadvertently sacrificed in the shadows. So if you don’t already, learn to use your histogram – it’s an invaluable tool for evaluating exposure, particularly in tricky lighting conditions. I have my camera set up so that pressing the centre button on the 4-way navigator flashes up a full screen histogram. That way I can use my preview to check sharpness and focus, and then push the centre button to do a quick histogram check before I go back to shooting. Don’t obsess over checking your shots – if you’re looking at your screen you’re missing what’s happening on stage. Do enough checks to fine tune your settings for a given set of lighting conditions, and then focus on shooting. 3. Watch the Performers Now that you’ve got your exposure sorted, watch the performers. No, I mean really watch the performers. Analyse their performance. How do they move on the stage? Where are their favourite places to stand? What are their idiosyncrasies? Facial expressions? Favourite postures? Signature moves? How do they express emotion? It doesn’t take a long – just watch for a while once a band has hit its stride and you’ll begin to see that each performer has little habitual movements, facial expressions, individual quirks, that are unique. Identifying these is key to capturing the individuality and expressiveness of a singer or player. If you have the opportunity to watch several performances by the same artist you may also find that there are events that happen at particular points in a set – pyrotechnics, a leap off a speaker stack, entry of a stage prop – and you can plan for these, too. 4. Anticipate Once you know what you’re looking for, anticipate it. If you’ve noticed that a guitarist bends a certain way during emotional moments in his solos, anticipate it, compose for it, and be ready when the moment comes. If a singer leans away from the mike a certain way during soulful pauses between song lines, pre-visualise your shot, get set up for it, and execute it when the elements come together. Of course, you also have to be ready to react instantly to capture a spontaneous moment. 5. Compose for Form People, instruments, objects on stage and even the glow of stage lights create shapes and lines in the frame. The beautiful lines of a guitar, for example, generally look better from some angles than others, as do the combined lines of the guitar and its player. Try and see the shapes that the elements in your viewfinder create and use them in your compositions. Take into account things like whether a singer holds the mike in their right hand or left, whether a guitarist is playing a right- or left-handed guitar, and then move around to position yourself to get the right angles for your shots. Work with the stage lights – move around and use them to rim light, sidelight or silhouette your subject. If there’s a background light flaring into your lens, see if you can make the flare work for you. 6. Watch for Foreground Clutter One of the challenges of concert photography is the clutter that is generally found on a concert stage – microphones and their stands, monitor speakers, amplifiers, cables, and even roving videographers. Clutter detracts from your shots. Try and position yourself to get shots that are as clear of such distractions as possible. In particular, watch for microphones that obscure a singer’s face (their mouth in particular), and watch for the shadows microphones cast too. In general, avoid standing directly in front of a singer as more often than not you’ll end up with a microphone where their mouth should be. Drummers are particularly tricky to get clean shots of, as they are surrounded by all kinds of ‘hardware’ and are usually also far back on the stage. Try and get shots of them from the side if you can. 7. Watch for Background Clutter Too! Perth photographer Rob Miller likes to say, “Forget about the subject, it’s the background that makes your photo.” Of course he doesn’t mean that literally, but a fantastic moment captured against a messy background will ultimately be a messy shot, while a fantastic moment captured against a fantastic background will be a fantastic shot. Watch out for elements of the background that you want to avoid, like stage scaffolds, lighting rigs and even other performers, and try to compose for those that you can use to your advantage. Remember that on a well lit stage you can use the glow of stage lights, or even the lights themselves, as your background. If there’s nothing going on in the background, if possible, try and set your exposure so that your subject is correctly exposed but the background collapses to black. Fast lenses help with background clutter, too, as not only do they allow you to make the most of what light you have available, but the shallow depth of field produced by a wide aperture helps to blur out background distractions. Accordingly, I rely primarily on a 70-200 f/2.8, a 50mm f/1.4 for very low light and for close shots in small venues or to take in more of the stage, and occasionally a 17-35mm f/2.8 for close work and for stage, crowd and venue shots. 8. Be Nice Remember that while you are trying to get a job done, everyone else is trying to enjoy a show that they have paid to see. Be nice. Think about the people behind you – get your shots, but try not to block anyone’s view for too long. If you’re in a crowd and need to get right in someone’s face for a moment to get a shot, do so politely. I often find that if you’re nice to people they’ll actually help you get the shots you need by encouraging other people to let you get to where you need to be. I try to avoid the use of flash as it’s distracting for performers and annoying for the people around you (and often also not allowed). Flash can also look unnatural, as it typically casts light of a different colour to the stage lights onto your subject. The exception to the no flash rule is when I need to lift shadows over a performer’s eyes, for example when someone is wearing a hat. I also ensure that the autofocus assist beam on my camera is off so that it’s not poking performers in the eye, and I turn my viewfinder preview off so it’s not a blinking distraction to people around me. (This also stops people craning over your shoulders to check out your business.) It’s a simple matter to press “Play” every now and then when you need to check a shot. If your camera allows, create a custom settings profile so you can set your camera the way you want it with a couple of button pushes, rather than having to go wandering through the menus every time you need to get set up. 9. Show Your Appreciation Anyone on a stage likes to know they’re being appreciated. Show your appreciation. You don’t have to jump up and down and scream (it’s difficult to take steady shots while jumping and screaming…), but make eye contact, show your appreciation with a smile, give a nod of thanks when a performer looks down your lens. Sometimes you’ll find a little appreciation earns you your own little mini performance, when a performer heads over to where you’re standing, looks down the barrel of your lens and pulls some moves just for you. Nyani is a Ghanaian/ Filipino/ Australian photographer spending 2009 travelling around North America with his family working on a personal project. Find his work on his website and blog at www.nqphotography.com , and follow the family’s travels at www.YearInAmerica.net . Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . Rock Concert Photography – 9 Tips on How to Get The Shot . . . → Read More: Rock Concert Photography – 9 Tips on How to Get The Shot

In Pictures: How Andrew Brooks is Photoshopping the World

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A Manchester-based photographer spends hours in the studio bringing you well-known cities — but as you’ve never seen them before. When Andrew Brooks learned the skills needed to manouvre the high-end post-production equipment used in advertising photography, his creativity and eye for detail lead him to completely new worlds. These panoramic and mystical images have been created from hundreds, and in some cases, thousands, of detailed photographs of urban scenes that have been meticulously spliced together. Speaking to Wired.co.uk, Brooks explained his work process: “They are all composite images, made of at least 40, if not hundreds of, individual photos. I don’t try to capture the image in one go, but prefer to gain as much detail as possible and then piece it together in Photoshop and post-production.” Brooks insists that, despite the amount of images he processes, his is not a mathematical process and boycotts the tripod when he’s out shooting: “It’s not about having the camera in one position. I shot the image of Pudong from ten different points in the tower. Afterwards, I build it how I want.” This “jigsawing” of multiple shots often produces staggering results. But sometimes a stunning view alone is inspiration enough: “I know when I’m in front of a view that’s really interesting,” says Brooks. “In these cases, I need to catch as much information as possible and then try to go back and try to define what it was that made that scene interesting; whether it was the detail or the light, for example.” Detail is still incredibly important to Brooks, despite the huge area his photographs cover, and he encourages viewers to explore the hi-res images of downtown New York and the fantasy scene of Sealand on his website. The latter image is made up of pictures of a pier in Holland, oil refineries and industry in Liverpool and tower blocks in Manchester and explores the story behind Sealand , a fort off the Essex coast which has been deemed its own country. Similarly, while the New York image may seem familiar, Brooks has worked his magic on some major landmarks. “You hardly ever see a picture where you can capture the real geography of Manhattan,” he explains, “but as I put it together I made downtown 30 percent larger than it is in real life and increased the size of the Statue of Liberty by 50 percent.” Although he arguably makes it look rather different, the world’s scenery remains Brooks’ inspiration: “I love using my photography as a way of travelling. It’s almost a framework for how I see the world.” Next on his list are the Aura Borealis and underwater shots of coral reefs. Check out a gallery of Brooks’ composites at Wired.co.uk . . . . → Read More: In Pictures: How Andrew Brooks is Photoshopping the World

Wedding Photography 101 (Part 3)

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This is the final part of a series on Wedding Photography. Read earlier parts of the series at: Wedding Photography 101 – Part 1 Wedding Photography 101 – Part 2 Image by Deann Barrera Work with what you are given You can prepare for everything and every eventuality for a wedding, but the one thing you can’t control is the weather. The optimum conditions for a wedding shoot is a slightly overcast day; producing bright, yet even light, which will not only flatter your couple and other subjects but allow you to record as much ambient light as possible, thus lowering ISO and resulting in sharper, cleaner frames. However, as controlling the weather is out of your hands, wedding photographers must learn to adapt to shoot in any environment. Sunny day Although the guests will adore a bright blue sky and hot sunny day, the photographer may secretly be praying for cloud cover. If you are confronted with a harshly lit day, bear in mind the best light will come in the morning and evening, so it could be a good idea to set off even earlier to get the bridal prep and location images in good light and if possible leave some of the romantic couple portraits until the sun lowers in the sky. There are a few other tricks one can also use to counteract the harsh light,  for starters move in closer to your subject, focus on details and if you can shade the subject in some way this will help to avoid shadows. Don’t be afraid to head in doors and position the couple next to a clean and ideally – veiled – window for softened light and even consider the use of a polarizing filter to cut out reflections and reduce contrast or  flash to fill in the shadows when frames are backlight. Furthermore, you can actually create some emotive silhouettes when shooting into the sun, simply position the couple between you and the sun so they appear in completely in shadow, this may mean that you need to move lower or to the side to get the best position. Another trick is to have the sun behind you and have the couple walk away hand in hand – perfectly lit. Remember to set a white balance according to the light conditions, or even bet learn to set it manually for completely accuracy and to recover details in a blown-out white dress when this is the focus of your frame underexpose the image by a stop or two. Rainy Day Image by Liliana If it rains on your wedding day it is said to be lucky, but try telling that to a disappointed bride. As with harsh sun, there are a few ways around the rain and after a downpour it can even lend itself for naturally creating saturated colours and magnify details, which can be teased to greater effect with a polarizer – so as soon as there is a break in the shower grab your couple and quickly get those frames in the bag. This is where your pre-shoot recce pays off, as hopefully before the shoot you visited the venue and identified places where you could photography romantic portraits and the all important group shots should this situation arise. Look for large windows indoors to position your couple next to and capture some evenly lit frames. Use a flash for indoor captures, employing a diffuser to soften the harshness of the beam and also incorporate some if the ambient light. Finally if you do shoot outdoors in the rain, whilst your couple are positioned under the safety of a porch for example, use a raincover or at the least a plastic carrier bag, to protect your camera and lens and if it’s windy utilise a tripod ideally pulled down with your camera bag or a bag full of rock for extra stability. You could also ask a willing guest to hold the reflector and bounce any available light onto the couple for that extra degree of improvement. Snowy Day Image by Anna Jarske Working in snowy conditions and cold temperatures will quickly deplete your camera and flash batteries so make sure you pack a few fully-charged spares and keep them as close to your body when not in use. Whilst a snow-dappled churchyard will undoubtedly make for a beautiful setting, getting the right exposure can be a nightmare; underexpose and you’ll have a grey canvas, overexpose and you’ll lose those all important details. Take a few trial shots to correctly identify what settings work using the histogram for guidance, or bracket exposures. Always set your white balance manually before you start and it is advisable to shoot in RAW if your camera allows it as this will provide you with more scope for adjustment at the post-production stage. When you and the couple are finished shooting outdoors, have a second camera already waiting for you indoors as the one you have just been using will need to be left in a safe area by the entrance – gradually being moved into the building in stages to allow it to warm up slowly to avoid condensation. Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . Wedding Photography 101 (Part 3) . . . → Read More: Wedding Photography 101 (Part 3)

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