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By DPreview, on January 11th, 2012%
CES 2012: Casio has released the Exilim EX-ZS150, EX-ZS20, EX-ZS12 and EX-ZS6, refreshing its compact camera range. The four cameras are all based around 16MP CCD sensors and feature the company’s ‘easy Mode’ interface, which offers which offers to guide the user to the optimal setters, as well as providing the ability to simply point-and-shoot. The ZS150 includes a stabilized 12.5x, 24-300mm equiv lens, similar to the one in the flagship ZR200 but the CCD chip means it can’t offer that camera’s high-speed features. The ZS20 has a 6x unstabilized zoom, starting at 26mm equiv, and including the company’s Premium Auto mode. The ZS12 and ZS6 lose both these features, instead including 5x, 26mm equiv zooms. . . . → Read More: Casio updates range with EX-ZS150, EX-ZS20, EX-ZS12 and EX-ZS6
By PC World, on December 31st, 2011%
Canon’s PowerShot SX40 HS Digital Camera raises the bar for optical zoom lenses–way, way up. This 35x, 24-840mm equivalent, zoom lens, taking you from a true wide-angle to an ultra telephoto suitable for wildlife and sports photography. And it comes with Canon’s Optical Image Stabilizer so you’ll be able to capture great shots even at super telephoto focal lengths without unseemly camera shake. A Zoom Framing Assist makes it easy to follow a moving subject, even using the super telephoto. . . . → Read More: PowerShot SX40 HS Black Digital Camera – Lowest Price: $379.00
By PC World, on December 31st, 2011%
The Canon EOS Rebel T3i Digital Camera Kit provides you with the T3i body and a Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS II lens. You’ll be ready to shoot from day one with this set-up. Just charge the included LP-E8 battery pack and pop in an SD/SDHC/SDXC memory card and you’re ready to start making photos! And should you want to expand your selection of lenses for the T3i, all Canon EF and EF-S lenses are compatible. . . . → Read More: EOS Rebel T3i Black SLR Digital Camera Kit w/ 18-55mm Lens – Lowest Price: $655.00
By PC World, on December 31st, 2011%
The Panasonic DMC-ZS10 Digital Camera features high-quality LEICA DC VARIO-ELMAR lens system which is even more versatile with 24mm ultra wide-angle to powerful 16x optical zoom (35mm camera equivalent: 24-384mm). Comprising 12 elements in 10 groups, including an ED lens and 3 aspherical lenses with 6 aspherical surfaces, this advanced lens unit suppresses chromatic aberration which tends to occur in telephoto shooting effectively. It also boasts a short total length of lens unit despite its higher versatility with longer zoom range, which is made possible by a development of new mechanism for a structure of lens barrel. The lens system is also compatible with high shutter speed of min.1/4,000 sec.The 24mm ultra wide-angle lens – rare on a compact camera – gives you a wider range of composition possibilities with approx. 213% larger viewing space compared to that of 35mm camera. The super-high-quality LEICA DC lens minimizes distortion at the wide end. The new 14.1-megapixel MOS sensor integrated in the DMC-ZS10 boasts high speed signal output and high sensitivity image recording for making many advanced features possible. It also enables the camera to record full HD 60i (NTSC) / 50i (PAL) smooth movie. For the effective concentration of light, the newly developed sensor adopts microfabrication technology to achieve even higher sensitivity.FEATURES: Powerful 16x Optical Zoom – The DMC-ZS10 features a powerful 16x optical zoom lens (35mm camera equivalent: 24-384mm). This gives you highly natural expressions from people and animals that you can’t get close to. Touch Zoom Function – The touch-screen operation on the DMC-ZS10 makes zooming even easier. To pull your subject in quickly by zooming to maximum magnification, touch the button. To make a more precise angle of view adjustment, use the touch lever. High-speed Con . . . → Read More: Lumix DMC-ZS10 Brown Digital Camera (14.1MP, 16x Opt, SD Card Slot) – Lowest Price: $249.00
By Photography Blog, on September 20th, 2011%
Nikon are running an online teaser campaign dubbed “I Am Coming” with a countdown of less than 34 hours. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Nikon – I Am Coming
By DPreview, on September 13th, 2011%
Just posted: Panasonic LX5 studio shots updated with firmware v2.0. The latest firmware for the DMC-LX5 is now available, so we’ve taken the enthusiast compact back into the studio to see what differences it makes. As well as improvements to the already impressive AF speed, Panasonic has also added an extra ‘Noise Reduction’ option in the menu. This applies additional noise reduction at ISO 1600 and 3200 (the highest full-resolution settings). We’ve included both NR on and Off in our comparisons at these settings. . . . → Read More: Panasonic DMC-LX5 firmware v2 studio shots posted
By Photography Blog, on September 13th, 2011%
Phase One today announced open enrollment for its New Zealand Phase One Digital Artist Series (PODAS) workshop. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Phase One Opens Enrollment for PODAS New Zealand Photography Workshop
By Steve Digicam, on August 19th, 2011%
Skrekkogle is a Norwegian design company that has some very interesting ideas when it comes to tilt-shift photography. Making regular sized objects appear miniature is what tilt-shift is all about, but Skrekkogle has found a way to make the illusion even more convincing. The secret to their success – a giant coin placed in the photograph to give it scale. When placed on a car, next to a building, a dumpster or any variety of other objects, the coin looks to be normal sized while the subject of the photograph appears to be small. The effect is convincing, and probably even better for those more familiar with the currency. If this were done with US based currency it would almost certainly look better to American eyes. Check out Skrekkogle’s website for more pics and a look at the making of the coin. (via PetaPixel ) . . . → Read More: A New Angle on Tilt-Shift Photography
By Photography Blog, on August 12th, 2011%
Ricoh has just announced that the upcoming exhibition, PDN’s 30 2011: PDN’s choice of 30 photographers to watch , will be hosted by its Ring Cube Photo Gallery in Tokyo. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: PDN’s 30 2011
By Photography Blog, on April 1st, 2011%
According to Sony’s Japanese website, the Sony SLT-A33 digital camera has been discontinued. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Sony A33 Officially Discontinued
By Digital Photography School, on March 28th, 2011%
 A very common camera repair performed today, no matter the type or manufacturer, is the replacement of the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screen. At the outset of this walkthrough a few things must be stressed; a disclaimer if you will. Trying to replace an LCD without proper knowledge and experience can be very difficult and sometimes hazardous. Pulling electronics apart and seeing how they work can be fun for some, but it can easily result in further damage and far more costly repairs. Nine times out of ten, when an LCD is being replaced, it is physically broken due to damage that was likely caused by some sort of trauma (from dropping etc). Cameras are very tightly packed little pieces of technology and generally the LCD is attached to and/or part of a lot of other integral components. Because of this, there is a high probability that there are other things broken that only a trained professional can diagnose/fix easily. Also, having spare parts on hand doesn’t make economic sense for your average consumer because the costs of replacement parts for cameras are not in proportion to their selling price. Furthermore, camera repair facilities have the necessary testing, calibration and adjustment equipment to get cameras fully operational. Bottom line, if one does attempt this at home, there is very little to no margin for error. Keep in mind this is a general walkthrough NOT a repair guide, I take no responsibility for any damage to property or personal harm that may occur from anyone making use of this information. With that said… The first things first, parts and tools are necessary to doing this job right. Obviously the part needed is a replacement LCD. It has to be for that particular make and model; this ensures the connections align and it fits properly. The essential tools for “most” LCD replacements are: A set of small Phillips Head screwdrivers (preferably magnetized) A straight pair and a curved pair of ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) safe tweezers A lint free cleaning cloth (microfiber) Compressed/canned air A shallow container or a flat refrigerator magnet for screws and parts *In more complicated configurations, a few additional tools may be needed, such as a soldering iron and solder. And now for the show, replacing the LCD! Please keep in mind this is a general many camera models are more complex and will require additional disassembly in order to remove and replace the LCD. Battery and memory card are removed. Inspection for any additional accessories that might get in the way is also done. Location and unscrewing of all housing screws to remove the necessary housing cover(s). It is easy to strip out the tiny screw heads; many manufacturers “glue” the screws in place. If the LCD was damaged due to impact, the housing may have shifted, making the screws problematic to remove. Proprietary screws can also be a problematic; the screwdriver may have to be special ordered from the manufacturer. Screws may also be hidden behind stickers or panels. The cover is loose now. The LCD is either attached to the rear cover or bracketed to the main circuit of the camera. There is a very real risk of shock from this point on. DO NOT TOUCH ANY CIRCUITRY. The flash capacitor circuit on some models is located nearby and will give a painfull serious jolt if one is not careful. Flexible Printed Circuits (FPC) and wires attach buttons on the external housing to the main circuit board; pulling those out accidentally is bad. The screws securing the LCD to the rest of the camera are now removed. These are fairly easy to find but there may be additional clips or seals to watch out for. Connecting components (generally wires or FPC’s) that run from the LCD to the rest of the camera are disconnected using the appropriate set of tweezers. It will be clear whether or not a soldering iron and solder is needed at this point. Proper soldering techniques apply here. Once those connections are severed, removal of the damaged LCD is easy. The damaged LCD is discarded after any important components are removed. The new LCD has a protective plastic sheet that is removed before installation. Touching it with bare hands must be avoided, potential damage could be done. It’s also in bad form to get any oils on the nice new LCD screen. Using the compressed/canned air, dust is blown out that may have settled on the new LCD or inside the camera. Care is taken to not blow dust into the wrong spots (viewfinder, lens, sensor, etc). Work in reverse; re-connection of the connections/wires and re-securing with the previously removed screws to the new LCD is done. Beware: It is very easy to bend/crack the connections. Special attention is paid to the FPCs and connections. They must be secure and seeded. Screw size is very important here. Using the wrong size can short or damage other components in the camera. Housing Cover(s) is/are re-fastened onto the camera and secured with the housing screws. Things may not line up properly at this point, something has gone wrong. It will have to be taken apart for evaluation and reassembled. Wires can bunch wrong here and there is a risk of pinching wires. The Battery and memory card are replaced and the camera is powered on. This only tests if the LCD was installed correctly. If the camera/LCD is not working there are countless other things that could be going wrong and are evaluated. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a high possibility that something else is broken and/or needed to be calibrated/adjusted. Further testing of the entire camera must be done to ensure the camera is fully operational. Just to stress again, trying these kinds of repairs at home, can be a great hobby for some, shouldn’t be taken lightly. Professional photographers always have a backup camera in case of any type of equipment malfunction; it’s not a bad idea. Kevin Gornto is a Factory Trained and Authorized Technician at C.R.I.S. Camera Services, a digital camera repair company located in Chandler, AZ. Kevin has an electronics degree that provided him with his advanced hardware knowledge and digital imaging expertise. He also enjoys writing about his technical experience and is a major contributor for the company’s camera repair blog; focused on care, maintenance and repair tips for digital cameras and imaging equipment. Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . How to Replace a Digital Camera’s LCD – a Walkthrough . . . → Read More: How to Replace a Digital Camera’s LCD – a Walkthrough
By Digital Photography School, on March 24th, 2011%
 A friend turned up today with a curly question. She’d been using a SD card in her point and shoot camera for some time and now the card had stopped functioning. If she put it in her computer she was told to format the disk to use it – sensibly she didn’t do this. However, she was sure she’d lost the shots she’d taken on her recent vacation. She took the card to a camera store and was quoted $25 to look at the card and then $15 for every 25 pictures recovered from it. Even though she only wanted the most recent images – some 30 or so – she’d have to pay for all the images they recovered. As she had over 1,000 images on the card – the math wasn’t pretty – over $600 to get her images. The shop owner explained the process was time consuming and complex – hence the cost. For my friend, the thirty or so photos just didn’t justify the expense. Luckily she called by to ask if she should she simply put the disk in the trash or was there an alternative? I grabbed the disk and sent her to get coffee – before she got back I had her images off the damage disk and burned to a DVD. Here’s what I did: The program I used is called Zero Assumption Recovery or ZAR. You can find it at www.z-a-recovery.com . I opted for this program because it allows you to recover digital pictures from digital camera memory free of charge – for other uses it is a for fee program. Start out by downloading an installing the ZAR Recovery software. Insert the damaged disk in the card reader and launch the software. When prompted that antivirus software may impact performance, click to accept the warning and go and disable your antivirus software. When prompted, click the Image Recovery (Free) option. The program looks for devices that are installed. This is probably the most confusing portion of the exercise because you’ll need to identify which of the devices in the list is your camera card. It’s not really that difficult and, in my case, Disk 4 shows as an SD card with 1,876 MB of data on it – pretty clearly it is the SD card. Select the disk and click Next. Wait as the program analyzes the disk. You’ll see a list of the recovered files. In my case I wanted all of them because not only did I not know which images she wanted but this dialog really isn’t the place to start getting fussy about which images you want and which you don’t – it’s simplest to take them all. So click the Root checkbox to select all the images. Click Next and you can then select the folder into which the recovered files will be placed. Because I selected the Root folder on the SD card these images will all go automatically into a subfolder called Root. Make sure you always recover files onto a disk other than the one they came from – it sounds self-evident but the busted SD card is not the place to put the recovered images. I left all the options set to their defaults and simply clicked Start Copying the Selected Files. The software copied 1099 files to my hard drive in a few minutes. Open the folder in Windows Explorer and set it to view thumbnails to see what you have. I found a handful of images were unreadable and a few images were only half full of data with half the image missing but well over 1000 of the files were there and most of those my friend remembers taking on her vacation. The moral of this post is to never throw out a camera card until you’ve tried to recover the data from it. There is good and free software out there that can do the recovery for you and it isn’t difficult or time-consuming to attempt it yourself. Oh! and don’t format a card if it has images on it that you want to download – even if your computer prompts you to do so – it’s not being helpful and the results might reduce your chance of recovering your images. Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . Recover Images from a Damaged SD card . . . → Read More: Recover Images from a Damaged SD card
By Photography Blog, on March 23rd, 2011%
What Digital Camera and Amateur Photographer have launched a joint appeal for victims of the Japan Tsunami. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Help the Japan Earthquake Victims
By Photography Blog, on March 22nd, 2011%
Nikon’s new FSB-8 digital camera bracket has been specifically designed to connect the new Nikon Coolpix P300 digital compact camera with the manufacturer’s range of Fieldscopes, spotting scopes and EZ Micro products. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Nikon FSB-8 Digital Camera Bracket
By Image Acquire, on March 21st, 2011%
This week we’re going to hit the digital camera market, and as is always the case with a field this wide, you’re going to have a lot of choices in a lot of different categories. And today, we’ll start off by tackling one of the bigger names in camera, the … . . . → Read More: Olympus XZ-1 Digital Camera Review–Professional Grade
By Photography Blog, on March 16th, 2011%
 The Pentax Optio RS1500 is a digital camera with a customisable skin. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Pentax Optio RS1500
By Photography Blog, on March 11th, 2011%
 Nearly one in four digital imaging enthusiasts in the US are likely to purchase a 3D digital camera within the next year, according to a new Consumer Electronics Association (CEA) study. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: 3D Digital Cameras Sparking Enthusiast Interest
By Photography Blog, on March 8th, 2011%
Panasonic USA has announced the suggested retail prices for its premium line-up of Lumix digital camera models. Read more and comment . . . → Read More: Panasonic Announces Pricing for Premium Compacts
By Image Acquire, on March 8th, 2011%
The Necono is a digital camera designed for those people that really love cats, and have that cat decor all through their place. Yeah, I think the people that have a lot of cat stuff are somewhat creepy too. The cat camera has nothing to do with the … . . . → Read More: Necono Digital Camera is very Cat-like
By 43rumors, on March 2nd, 2011%
 On top: An image taken with the Fuji X100 and “Astia” filter The dpreview forum user “ Ncruces ” posted the patched source code to open the Quesabesdes RAW files with DCraw. Download from here: http://db.tt/jSGfK7R. The dpreview forum user “ ebrandon ” posted two links to download the “before” (unprocessed TIFF) http://db.tt/uM3tnCm and the “after” (post-processed TIFF) http://db.tt/dvXlxHS. Meanwhile Entincingthelight explains you why the X100 is NOT to expensive: “ I think I’ve shown that the X100 is not the expensive proposition many are making it out to be. For the photographer who wants a well-built, relatively compact, externally simple digital camera with physical dials, and for whom a fast wideangle lens covers most of his/her needs, the X100 is almost cheap , especially if you consider this photographer will probably use the camera for many years before replacing it. ” P.S.: In USA the camera will start shipping on March 7 (Source: Dpreview forum ). You can subscribe to be notified when the X100 will be in Stock at Amazon , Adorama , BHphoto , eBay . P.S.: Where in Europe??? . . . → Read More: New Fuji X100 patch to open RAW files (+ more news)
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