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By Digital Photography School, on February 11th, 2011%
 Lens distortion is a potential problem for any photographer without access to a tilt shift lens, and not all of us have the ability or desire to dump a couple grand on one. There’s a lot of things that two grand could go towards besides a niche lens like a tilt shift. If you’re an architectural photographer, that is certainly a different story, but most people aren’t. There are quite a few types of lens distortion, but this article is going to focus on perspective distortion. I’ve found, for photographers, lens distortion only becomes a problem once you discover what it is, and if you haven’t discovered it yet then I apologize in advance because now it will drive you nuts when you don’t want it! When I first started out, I had no idea that my lens distorted reality and therefore I never noticed it in my images. I remember when I first started posting photos to flickr when I was brand new photographer, I put up an image I took at a really old methodist church. I took the shot from the second floor balcony, which unknowingly to me at the time was probably the best place to shoot when trying to get straight lines all throughout your image. Unfortunately for me, I tilted the camera down a bit, which caused the vertical lines in the scene to lean in towards the center of the image. When somebody tried to point this out to me, I was befuddled. I looked and looked at the image, but I couldn’t see what he was talking about. He just told me that the lines weren’t straight! I wasn’t looking at the lines in the scene in comparison to the edges of the frame, I was just looking at the lines themselves. They looked pretty dang straight to me, and I was getting pretty ticked off at this guy! Eventually, he told me to compare the lines in the scene to the outer edges of the framing itself and that’s when I had that first “aha” moment with lens distortion. It’s important to note that lens distortion isn’t good or bad in and of itself. Like most things, it just depends on how and when you use it, and whether or not you meant to use it! If you are unfamiliar with what I’m talking about, here are a few examples of intentional lens distortion… Image by Jacob Lucas Here’s a great example from Jacob Lucas . Notice how the pillars lean in toward the center of the frame? They don’t go straight up and down like they would in real life. This is pretty obvious distortion, but it works great in this image. Image by Trey Ratcliff Here’s another example from Trey Ratcliff . This is one of his famous images from a bamboo forest in Kyoto, Japan. This is intentional lens distortion at it’s best. Trey pointed his lens straight up into the trees, so the distortion created a canopy of bamboo that seams to close in on you. If you go to this forest and stand in this same spot, these trees would all be pointing straight up. If you didn’t notice this before, I hope you’re having your own little “aha” moment right about now. Perhaps you noticed things like this in your subconscious, but never really thought about why an image looked the way it did. This type of lens distortion is most prevalent with wide angle lenses, and is caused by pointing the camera up or down relative to a subject. This is why if you look up and take a picture of a really tall building, or anything with vertical lines, it looks like it’s falling down on you. This isn’t necessarily bad, I think it certainly worked in the examples above, but it’s important to know how to fix it if that isn’t what you want in your final image. Sometimes, the composition demands straight, perfect lines. Ok enough already, tell me how to fix it! Ok ok, fine. There are numerous ways to fix lens distortion, but this tutorial will cover how to do it in Photoshop. I know for a fact you can do the same thing in Lightroom 3, and there are probably plug-ins out there that would allow for something like this in Aperture. I know, not everyone has Photoshop and I understand that, but you should seriously consider saving up for it if you don’t already own it. It’s an incredibly powerful program and I use it on a daily basis. Sure, it’s a bit pricy, but it’s highly worth it I promise! Here’s an image from my library that we will use for an example… Before we get started, if you are/were a fan of the series Prison Break, maybe this building looks familiar to you? Personally, I loved the show, but thought the last episode ruined everything. I just finished season 4 the other day and I was livid at the last couple minutes of that show! But I digress. You’ll notice in this shot that we definitely have some lens distortion to deal with. Take a look at the brick columns on the far left and right side, we want to use those columns as a guide to correct the distortion and make everything nice and straight. Here’s what you do in Photoshop… If you can’t quite read what’s circle on the screen shot, just click the image to view it full size. You’ll notice that I numbered everything, so let’s go in order here… Once your image is in Photoshop, select the crop tool from the left hand toolbar. You can also do this quickly by hitting the short cut “C.” Once selected, drag the crop tool over the entire image. Once the crop overlay is covering the image, make sure that “Grid” is selected. This is a better option than the “Rule of Thirds” option in this case, as it will help you line up the distortion correction. Here’s the little box that a lot of people don’t know about! Without this box selected, you can only make standard crops by dragging the corners or sides up and down. With this box selected, you can now drag the corners in to correct perspective lens distortion! As you can see here, I grabbed each top corner in and used the far right and left columns as a guide to make the grid line up with the angle of the columns. That’s it! Photoshop will do the rest of the work from here, so once you have the crop overlay where you want it, just hit enter and see what happens. Here is the final result… Conclusion As you can see, the columns around the doors are now perfectly straight up and down. You might think it unfortunate that I lost the columns on the far right and left, but here’s a secret: I knew when taking this shot that I’d need to do some lens correction on it. Therefore, I took a few steps back and placed those far columns just inside the frame to act as a guide later in Photoshop. Once you learn tricks like this, you can plan ahead later on. If you have any questions about this tip, or you want to talk about how awesome Prison Break was until the last episode, be sure to leave a comment. If you know of a plug-in that can do this in other programs like Aperture, be sure to let us know that as well! Finally, I’m always looking for cool, fellow photographers to connect with on Twitter, so be sure to follow me ( @jamesdbrandon ) if you don’t already. Cheers, and happy shooting! Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . Correcting Perspective Lens Distortion In Photoshop . . . → Read More: Correcting Perspective Lens Distortion In Photoshop
By Photography Blog, on February 8th, 2011%
Fine art photographer Melissa Mercier explores how her photography can have a therapeutic effect. Read the article . . . → Read More: Irrational Fear of Confined Spaces
By Digital Photography School, on February 7th, 2011%
A Guest Post by Valerie Jardin . I am a photographer. I love the outdoors and I live in the state of Minnesota. Even if you love snow and extreme temperatures, I can assure you that, by the end of January, you will be starved for some color in nature and less bulky clothing. Living in a ‘black and white’ landscape for several months every year makes you appreciate little things. As a photographer and nature lover you develop an eye for details. Here are a few tips to help you survive a long, cold and snowy winter while photographing nature. First and foremost, be ready for extreme temperatures and wind chills before heading out into the woods. Hand and feet warmers and layers of clothing are common sense. Thin gloves under your heavy mittens so that you don’t get frostbites when you need to make camera adjustments are a good idea. Having a large plastic bag handy to seal your camera or your entire gear bag in before going back to room temperature will prevent heavy condensation on your precious equipment. In the middle of winter, there will be a time when you find yourself in a creative rut, when you are going to get tired of photographing ‘Winter Wonderland’ however pretty it may look. You are starting to dream about grass, dirt, spring flowers and the return of the migratory birds. I usually reach that state of mind around mid January. So what do I do? I get out there with my camera and my snowshoes and I shoot. What do I look for when out on a nature walk in January? I pay attention to details, patterns, the slightest bit of color, animal tracks, wildlife. Why not experiment with some black and white photography or use a creative effect lens such as the Lensbaby Composer? Here are a few examples of images I shot on some of the most dreary and cold days this winter, most of them within walking distance from my house: The color of the blue spruce really stands out in the snow. Look for interesting shapes, here the shadow and drift look like a giant spoon Patterns in the snow Snow covered fox tracks Use a shallow depth of field to isolate a detail Deer always look so beautiful in the snow. They are almost impossible to spot in the woods any other time of the year. Experiment with black and white Need a little creative boost? A special effect lens such as the Lensbaby Composer can be a really fun tool to look at nature differently I hope you enjoyed this article. If you are located in a cold state or country, spring is coming… Happy winter shooting! Connect with Valerie on Facebook or Twitter or visit her website . Post from: Digital Photography School – Photography Tips . Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips , Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras . How to Stay Motivated to Photograph Nature after Months in the Snow and Cold . . . → Read More: How to Stay Motivated to Photograph Nature after Months in the Snow and Cold
By PC World, on February 4th, 2011%
Nikon’s D7000 features a 16.2 MP DX-format CMOS sensor, 6 fps continuous shooting and breathtaking Full 1080p HD Movies with Full Time Autofocus and external stereo microphone jack to record cinematic-quality movies up to 20 minutes all enhanced by Nikkor interchangeable lens quality and versatility. . . . → Read More: D7000 16.2 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera Body Only – Black – Lowest Price: $1199.95
By 43rumors, on February 2nd, 2011%
 Chipworks dissembled and analyzed the GH2 electronic. You can only read the first part of their article. After that you have to pay to read the rest! There is a new GH2 review at CNET : “ It’s speedy, feature-packed, and an excellent ILC for shooting video, but to consistently get really good photos out of the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 requires shooting raw. “ . . . → Read More: Panansonic GH2 dissembled and analyzed.
By Steve Digicam, on February 2nd, 2011%
People often draw the comparison between a camera and a human eye. . . . → Read More: Finding the ISO of the Human Eye
By Photography Blog, on February 1st, 2011%
Large format photographer David Ward considers how photographs communicate meaning to the viewer. Read the article . . . → Read More: How to Convey Meaning in Your Photos
By 43rumors, on January 31st, 2011%
 We already knew it and DxOmark confirms it. According to DxoMark there is virtually no difference between the GF2 and GF1 RAW image quality. Color depth, dynamic range and ISO performance are exactly on par. By far more worth to read is the article written by Peter van den Hamer and posted on Luminous Landscape . Peter explains how DxOmark works and how reliable it is: “ Probably every image quality expert would have a somewhat different personal preference for a benchmark like this. But my impression is that the benchmark is pretty useful: I analyzed the model and the data, but didn’t find any serious flaws. ” He gives many hints about how DxOmarks works and one was particularly interesting: “ It should be clear by now that larger sensors (rather than larger pixels!) can produce less noisy images. This is simply because a larger sensor area can capture more light – and for reasonable resolutions this is pretty independent of the amount of MPixels the sensor’s surface has been divided into. ” Click on the store name to directly check price and availability of the GF2: Amazon US , Adorama , BHphoto , Amazon UK , Amazon DE and eBay . . . . → Read More: GF2 at DxOmark (+ DxO analysys by Van Den Hammer)
By Digital Photography School, on January 29th, 2011%
I was shooting a wedding once and the father-of-the-bride ‘knew a lot about photography’. I was literally laughing out loud (trying so terribly hard to hold it in) when I would adjust the dials and hear him say over my shoulder “mmmm oh yes you’re probably changing the white balance hmmm?” And best of all, “if you’re really professional you shoot in raw.” Raw. It’s the ultimate test of someone’s acceptance of your status as a professional because it’s one of the first things that a mildly keen just-starting-out-er will pick up on in their search for photography knowledge. But even though it’s one of the first things you’ll likely learn, it’s also one of the most confusing elements for a beginner. I’m a control freak. I don’t want to work my butt off to pull every element of an image together and then lose control of my colour temp in post processing. I want to control everything about the final product. If it were possible, I would even come to every single one of your houses and calibrate the world’s computer screens to see things exactly the same. Before you can love raw, you have to understand it. {Basically…} If you’re shooting in jpeg and you hit the shutter to let all the beautiful light flood your sensor and record the image onto your memory card, the camera collects the information and quickly compresses it down into a reasonably sized file. It judges things like the colour of the sky and the temperature of the light. Even when you’ve taken the image in manual mode and set everything yourself, the jpeg still needs to make some decisions as it smooshes all that information into one little file. But if you shoot in raw, the sensor stays hands-off and says “ok, hot shot. YOU deal with it!” …this means that you have total, blissful control of your entire image. …but not without some work of your own. RAW files need to be imported into a computer program like Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw and then either instantly exported as jpegs (yikes!) …or perfected according to your vision for the image with editing and then exported as a jpg or other printer-friendly format. So just to make sure you get it I’ll say it this way: a raw file isn’t an image. It’s information gathered by the sensor and delivered to you on a memory card. It’s totally your job to then do what you want with that information before compressing it into an ‘image’. Also, a raw file won’t usually have included the in-camera sharpening that jpeg compression provides. So don’t fret when you think your image isn’t as sharp as it should be – this also needs to be done by you in the post production editing process. Here are some links to set you on your path to opening and utilizing your raw files: You can process your raws with Google’s free program called Picasa . This is an article about how to process raw files in Picasa and this is a list of supported file types. This article from Apple is FAQs about processing your raws in iPhoto Bridge is another option and also useful if you’re likely to be utilising many different Adobe programs from your computer. Exe: Photoshop, Illustrator, etc. It’s a base from which you can spring to any of these programs. If you’re only using PS, it’s not really necessary, although Helen Bradley has a great post on about the ways she thinks Bridge is useful . This is a tutorial written by me , before I learned how to make videos. Full of screen shots to show you how I import my files into Lightroom and export them out when I’m finished editing. This is the Wikipedia entry for ‘raw image format’ . Scroll down to ’software support’ and you’ll find a pretty huge list of software at your disposal for processing your raw files. Post from: Digital Photography School . . . → Read More: The Basics of RAW files {and what to do with the darn things}
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
With a host of features designed to enhance every facet of the photographic process, from still images to video, the EOS 7D represents a different class of camera. Made to be the tool of choice for serious photographers and semi-professionals, the EOS 7D features an 18.0 Megapixel APS-C size CMOS sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors, capturing tremendous images at up to ISO 12800 and speeds of up to 8 fps. The EOS 7D has a all cross-type 19-point AF system with improved AI Servo AF subject tracking and user-selectable AF area selection modes for sharp focus no matter the situation. . . . → Read More: EOS 7D Digital SLR Camera – Lowest Price: $1279.00
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
Canon’s PowerShot S95 Digital Camera puts you in the driver’s seat with this Italian sports car of a compact camera lots of razzle-dazzle, backed up by prodigious engineering. Starting with an 10.1 megapixel sensor and the DIGIC 4 Image Processor, the S95 antes up an f/2.0 28-105mm zoom lens, an intuitive manual-control ring, and the refined Hybrid IS 2-way image stabilization system. Shoot beautiful 720p HD video in stereo sound and play back on an HDTV via the HDMI output. . . . → Read More: PowerShot S95 Black Digital Camera – Lowest Price: $399.00
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
The Canon Powershot G12 digital camera is ready to impress the advanced amateurs who have always celebrated the G Series. This camera has 2.8-inch Vari-angle PureColor System LCD, and RAW plus JPEG image modes. This camera has features like 720p HD Video with stereo sound to get crystal clear footage, multiple aspect ratios, High Dynamic Range, Electronic Level, Tracking AF, a Front Dial and much more to give you creative control. . . . → Read More: PowerShot G12 Black Digital Camera – Lowest Price: $433.95
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
With the EOS 60D DSLR, Canon gives the photo enthusiast a powerful tool fostering creativity, with better image quality, more advanced features and automatic and in-camera technologies for ease-of-use. It features an improved APS-C sized 18.0 Megapixel CMOS sensor for images, a DIGIC 4 Image Processor for finer detail and color reproduction, and improved ISO capabilities from 100 – 6400 (expandable to 12800) for shooting even in the dimmest situations. . . . → Read More: EOS 60D Black Digital SLR Camera – Body Only – Lowest Price: $899.00
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
The Canon EOS Rebel T2i brings professional EOS features into an easy to use, lightweight digital SLR that’s a joy to use. Featuring a 18.0 Megapixel CMOS Image Sensor and increased light sensitivity for low light photography, the EOS Rebel T2i also has an advanced HD Movie mode for gorgeous Full HD movies. Able to capture up to 3.7 frames per second, it’s ready to go the minute it’s picked up. Advanced Live View, a new wide-area screen, plus features like Canon’s brilliant Auto Lighting Optimizer and Highlight Tone features ensure brilliant photos and movies, easily. . . . → Read More: EOS Rebel T2i Digital SLR Camera – 18 Megapixel – 3" Active Matrix TFT Color LCD – Lowest Price: $669.00
By PC World, on January 29th, 2011%
The PowerShot SX30 IS is equipped with a 35x Optical Zoom lens with a focal length of 4.3-150.5mm (35mm equivalent: 24-840mm) that allows you to shoot any scene from wide-angle to telephoto. The camera uses a VCM (Voice Coil Motor) for high-speed, quiet, energy-efficient lens movement with precise control. Focal length is conveniently indicated on the lens barrel. The SX30 IS is equipped with Canon’s acclaimed Optical Image Stabilizer Technology that automatically detects and corrects camera shake–one of the leading causes of fuzzy or blurred shots. Even when zoomed in, you can get the steady, crisp, brilliant images you’ll be proud to shoot and share. And Canon’s Optical Image Stabilizer Technology is convenient to use. It functions perfectly with or without a flash. . . . → Read More: PowerShot SX30 IS Black Digital Camera – Lowest Price: $369.00
By CameraLabs, on January 18th, 2011%
The vast majority of new DSLRs and compact cameras capture great-looking HD video, but while clips playback smoothly on the cameras themselves, they can prove tricky to edit on your PC. The problem is modern HD video tends to employ complex compression which is hard to decode in realtime for editing. Traditionally the solution to sluggish PC performance was to upgrade the hardware, but in this article we’ll explain why having the right software can make a much bigger impact. We’ve gone from frustratingly slow editing to a smooth workflow without upgrading the CPU, RAM, disk or graphics. Find out why the right software is the key in our HD DSLR Video Editing guide! . . . → Read More: Editing HD video from a DSLR – why a software upgrade may be best
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